Waves are one of the most enjoyable features of the beach and ocean. However, they change with different conditions. Waves at the beach may also be referred to as the 'surf' or 'swell'.
The surf can change very quickly at the beach. If you are in the ocean, you should always face the sea. This way you can see any large waves approaching.
If you are not sure if conditions are safe for swimming, ask a lifesaver or lifeguard for safety advice.
A wave 'breaks' when the swell reaches shallow water. This is when the wave curls over. There are 3 different ways that a wave can break.
Plunging and dumping waves
Plunging and dumping waves break suddenly. They often form a barrel shape. You may not see any white water until after they break.
They can knock you over and throw you to the bottom with great force. These waves usually occur at low tide where sandbanks are shallow.
Dumping waves can cause injuries to swimmers, particularly spinal and head injuries. You should never body surf on these waves.
Spilling waves
Spilling waves will have white water tumbling down the face of the wave (in front). They usually have less force, and are the safest waves for body surfing.
They are found on beaches and in bays where the sea floor slopes gradually. Sometimes they can be found near sandbanks at high tide.
Surging waves
If the water around the shore is deep, the waves may not break. These are called surging waves.
These waves are found in rocky areas around cliffs and where the beach drops off quickly. They can be very dangerous. They can knock you over and drag you back into deep water.
Large waves
Sometimes, waves at the beach can be quite large. This may depend on the type of beach and the wind at the time.
Surfing or swimming around large waves can be dangerous. It should only be attempted by experienced swimmers, between the red and yellow flags.
You should also avoid creek and river mouths when there is large surf. This is because the currents there are often stronger.